tarv wrote:
Gbaji's not entirely correct, if a card has a card draw in addition to an already useful effect or you are running a deck that requires only 30 cards to be effective you can afford in a 60 card deck (assuming you are running the staple 22-24 lands) to include 6-8 draw cards to sieve through your deck to get to the cards you require.
Absolutely. But barring the need to pad a low count deck to some tournament minimum (a point I hadn't considered, but not relevant in his 78 card example), there is absolutely no reason to put an otherwise useless card in your deck which only serves the purpose of allowing you to discard it and draw a different card. You'll accomplish the exact same thing by not having it and thus allowing you to have drawn a different card in the first place.
Also, his particular card choice probably wouldn't have worked anyway. As I said, it's been a long time since I've played, so I could be off on the rules, but IIRC you can't use a targeted effect without having a legal target for the effect. Since he has no creatures, he'd have to rely on the other guy having them out to be ale to use the card and he'd be buffing up the other guy's creature in the process.
Where that card would be useful is either in a deck (with creatures) in which you have some kind of beneficial effect for red creatures, allowing you grant that effect to creatures which would not ordinarily gain it (and get another card). Alternatively, if you have some detrimental effect that only hits red creatures, you could use it to target your opponents creatures for your own benefit.
None of those conditions are present in this deck, so the card should be dropped.
Quote:
Filter lands (those you sacrifice to search for a particular type of land) and cycle lands( those you can pay to discard and draw a card) are examples of how top players would use a less efficient card to "thin" out the mana in what remains of thier deck leaving a higher chance of drawing a premium use non land card.
Yes, of course. But what makes top players top players is that they know when to include cards like that in a deck and how to construct the deck so that it takes the most advantage of those sorts of cards. They don't start with a deck that has a lot of useful cards, but a hard time getting the right combo out, and then start putting
more cards into their deck to help them draw cards faster. They start out thinking they're going to use card draw options, look at the cards they have available which do that, and then tailor the entire deck to take advantage of the secondary effects on the cards which allow them to draw other cards.
The first rule to building a good deck is "take out everything that doesn't forward your main plan for winning". The second rule is "Take out more cards, cause you still have stuff you don't need". The third rule is... well, you get the point. The very best decks I played against back in the day were so well designed that every card worked with every other card in some way, allowing a good player to make use of them without sitting around waiting turn after turn for just the right card. Card draw strategies negate having to do this, and can have some elegance to them, but can just as often be poorly implemented.
For someone starting out building decks, I'd strongly recommend working on building decks without any sort of card draw or token tricks in them first. Find out what sorts of combinations are successful first and learn how to make them work consistently. Then move on to those other strategies. The lessons you learn by building more straight decks first will help you use the sneakier tricks much much more effectively.